Kauai, the most magnificent – if not most visited – Hawaiian Island, offers whatever mixture of activity and relaxation vacationers may desire. Your first decision is where to stay. Here are three ideas:

If you are water people and/or sun worshipper, your best bet is the south side with Poipu Beach being the premier destination. Hotels, condos and timeshares ring this lovely public beach that offers a calm swimming area, snorkeling and a consistent reef break for surfing.

• Golfers who won’t be disappointed by consistent rain might prefer the north shore’s Princeville resort and its championship courses set atop cliffs overlooking the Pacific. It too comes with an array of accommodations.
• Interested in a less traditional stay? Try Hanalei, a village with funky ’60s vibe, and a bit of a counter to the tourist culture with cottages and B&Bs. Even if you don’t stay here, stop on the way to the Napali Coast for a reasonable meal and a laid back atmosphere that epitomizes Hawaii’s “hang loose” motto.
• See Hawaii Magazine’s Kauai slideshow.

Fortunately, the island is compact enough that you can take advantage of all of its delights regardless of where you hang your beach towel. Some recommendations:

Napali Coast: This gorgeous stretch of soaring cliffs and prodigious waterfalls plunging from the rainiest place on earth into the sea can be approached by land, sea or air. Take Highway 560 north of Hanalei to the end of the road.

The 11-mile Kalalua Trail follows the coast through five lush valleys, waterfalls and ancient Hawaiian ruins. You will need a backpack, a permit and probably a couple of days to do the entire trail, but day trippers can get a good taste of the scenery by hiking in for 30 minutes to 3 hours and turning back. Hanakapiai Beach is 2 miles in and Hanakpiai Falls is another 2 miles. Shade, breeze and regular rain keep the trail cool. Mud, tree roots, slippery rocks and continuous gains and losses of 400 feet or so make for a challenging hike.

Don’t get back in the car without taking a dip at Kee Beach, where some of the island’s best snorkeling is found.

A number of tour companies sail along the Napali Coast, offering views of the entire stretch, interesting facts about nature and Hawaiian history, a stop for snorkeling and a meal. This is pricey compared with walking the trail, but it’s definitely a treat that is well worth the fare. You also can take a helicopter tour of the coast, as well as the Akai Swamp and Waimea Canyon.

 

Wailua River: The relaxed vacationer can take a cruise boat up Kauai’s only navigable river to the Fern Grotto for a ukulele, hula and Hawaiian lore
show reminiscent of the Don Ho era. Those more actively inclined can ditch the show and grab a paddle. Several outfitters lead kayak trips up another branch of the river that lead to, after a short hike, a pool at the base of a remote waterfall. This option gives you a great natural experience and a workout to feel like you earned it. My arms felt it at the end of the day as I was part of my daughters’ sibling rivalry race.

Tip: most of the companies offer the half-day trip for about $100, but Kayak Wailua charges about $55. The difference? A box lunch served at the waterfall and the convenience of booking through the concierge. Book online or by phone, pack your own or stop at Subway, and save some serious coin. www.kayakwailua.com

Waimea Canyon: Dubbed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific by Mark Twain, this ravine carved by waters flowing from rainforests and peaks that get 400 inches of rain annually displays the kind of stratification its much larger namesake is famous for. There are lookouts and hikes along the winding road up from the south shore. Go to the end and get a third view of the Napali Coast – from the top. And if you don’t mind getting muddy, take a hike into the world’s highest swamp, yet another byproduct of Kauai’s extreme wetness.

Island cuisine: Abundant local seafood and island-grown vegetables provide ingredients for great food, whether you dine at one of Kauai’s many restaurants or buy ingredients at a farmers market to cook in your resort condo, where vacationers often bond around the barbecues.

The selection ranges from the basics at Bubba Burgers (several locations) to the gourmet Asian fusion of Roy’s at Poipu. Celebrate a special occasion watching a picturesque sunset at Poipu’s indoor-outdoor Beach House or get in the tropical spirit in a faux jungle treehouse at Keoki’s Paradise (this is part of the same chain as Duke’s at the Huntington Beach Pier).

Or ask a local. Our river guide recommended Mexican and sushi in Kapaa near the mouth of the Wailua. Monico’s Mexican was tasty, moderately priced and without atmosphere or pretense. You can enjoy a beer with your taco, but you have to pick it up at the gas station next door where you depart for the kayak trip.

We were not able to try what we were told was the best sushi on the island at Restaurant Kintaro because we arrived 5 minutes after opening and were faced with an hour wait on the night of our flight home, but the crowd appeared to be a testament to the endorsement and web sites also give it favorable reviews.

And if all this activity seems too much for you, Kauai has many palm trees where you can camp with a beach towel, a good book and perhaps a mai tai to enjoy the most perfect setting imaginable. You could enjoy a week this way without ever leaving Poipu Beach.

I re-read part of the Michener classic Hawaii on our 2008 trip, but also rented a surfboard for the week and indulged in a daily workout in 80-degree water and a constant flow of small, but well-shaped waves. There I met friendly locals, fellow Orange Countians and a young man from England whose family spends two weeks at Poipu every year. Made me a bit envious, I must admit. I had thought our every-other-year timeshare week at Marriott’s Waiohai was as good as it gets. Well, at least I come home to Orange County.